It sounds like everyone commenting on this post was also NOT notified about the class action lawsuit which is now over unless you bought your car around this time in 2012 or later. The solution (to kick the can down the road quite a ways) is a $3000 piston ring job. This eventually turns into burning a lot of oil and spark plugs (namely in cylinder 3) dying in less than every 3,000 miles (and mine seems to be getting steadily worse), blowing catalytic converters, etc. That rots the piston rings, lets oil into the spark plugs, etc.

It dumps fuel into the non-operating cylinders (eco mode = when the V6 drops down to V4) and doesn't ignite it. Long story short, the whole VCM / Eco design in the 8th gens is super screwed up. Google 'Accord V6 8th Class Action Lawsuit' or 'Accord V6 8th cylinder 3' and read up. I have the same car and it's likely the start of a MUCH worse issue. Sorry for the excessive information but I'm just stumped at the moment and not sure what other direction to go. Routine oil changes every 4-5k with Royal Purple 5W-20 since buying the car with 60k (car currently has right under 110k) Water pump and timing chain were replaced at 80,000 These plugs were roughly in from 71,000 miles until about 82,000. Was not advised these were the wrong plugs until October of 2015 when I had them replaced with NGK. Plugs were replaced with Bosch (which I feel has contributed to the screw ups) in February of 2015. If it makes a difference to not or not, I've checked the oil quite a few times over the past few days and from the best I can tell, none has been lost nor am I noticing any leaks when I park the car.īrief maintenance history of the car if it matters. I expected the catalytic code to come back since I'm still waiting for the converter to come in to be replaced, but it began doing the exact same thing as a few nights before, horrendous sound and no eco tec. After having the car combed over by a shop I trust they advised me to have the 'Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switches on the valve cover' replaced, 2 $30 parts so I was hopeful this would fix the issue and there would be no more problems.

After having a code reader put on the car in addition to the P0420 code was a P3400 code.

While driving to have the code read I also noticed the 'eco' mode would not engage. The light will come on for a day or two then go off like nothing happened.Įarlier this week driving home from work I got off the interstate and noticed my car sounded like what I can only describe as a pissed off lawn mower. I had the bank 'B' converter replaced back in May of last year (I think that's what they referred to it as.) and have not had any problems until the light came on about a month ago. Beginning with the P0420 catalytic system/converter below threshold for about a month. I've had problems out of my car for about the past month now.

2010 honda accord 3.5 bank 2 convertor